The past few days, I have found myself in culinary nostalgia. I still have not determined why this nostalgia has dominated my thoughts as I compose a meal.
The other day, I had a meal planned
with chicken accompanied by steamed yellow squash & a side of fruit for my
mother Jean. Then I remembered a dish with
yellow squash that my ex-mother-in-law Willa used to make.
Willa was not a particularly inventive
or creative cook. But what she made well
was spectacular. Almost every weekend my
ex & I made the journey to spend time with his parents, Willa prepared a
corned beef.
As a young woman who several times
refused to eat meat – once when my father cut up a deer in the back yard &
another time when he sliced the ham so thick that all I saw was the resemblance
to human flesh.
Never before encountering Willa had I
ever eaten corned beef. I had no desire
to do so every time she cooked it. I ate
the vegetables & avoided the beef.
One Saturday visit, as Willa’s kitchen
was filled with the odor of corned beef, my then father-in-law asked her why
she always cooked corned beef, knowing that I did not care for it.
I no longer recall her reply. But I am convinced that her youngest son
liked it & she secretly delighted in taunting me.
Dating back to the first meal I shared
in her home. Served in the kitchen from
the stove. It was not my family scene –
everything placed in dishes on the table.
I helped my plate & took my seat.
She was furious.
Aren’t you
going to prepare your fiancé’s plate?
The question was so outside my
experience that I replied the only way my not quite twenty year old self knew
how to reply.
He is a grown man.
He can prepare his own plate.
Willa made other dishes that still
stand out. Nothing from Thanksgivings
except for the fact that she favored cakes over pies & there was always an
Italian Cream Cake.
But she knew how to fry shrimp. I still have the index card with her recipe.
And she made a really easy dish out of
yellow squash, involving sautéed onions & garlic & cheddar cheese.
I made Willa’s yellow squash recipe
from memory & my mother Jean loved it.
Eventually I learned to appreciate
corned beef – not from Willa. But from
my friend Susan Chambless who used Joanne Anderson’s recipe. Corned beef cooked with garlic, potatoes,
onions & carrots – spiced with black, green & white peppercorns. The cabbage place on top to steam at the
last. And horseradish served on the
side.
I have repeated that recipe so many
times – something I never would have tried but for the fact that I trusted the
culinary talents of Susan Chambless.
Just as I trusted those talents when Susan served me fried dove breasts, held together over a jalapeño strip with a tooth
pick. Served with gravy.
Today I went through the note cards I
kept in a recipe box during another incarnation & life. I found them in a drawer, held together by a
rubber band.
I threw out the ones that caused me to
think what were you thinking?
And I ran across Barb Vogt’s recipe for “Cheese
Stuffed Zucchini,” written in her own print.
While I remember this recipe fondly, given to me by the wife of my then
husband’s best friend, I also remembered the trips to Boerne & Comfort
& Sister.
I remembered standing up
as one of Barb & Doug’s honorary god parents for their first child, Brian
Douglas.
And then it struck me.
Culinary nostalgia is not only about
remembering the experience of flavors.
It is about the memory & reliving sharing with friends & loved
ones. It is about stepping outside the
box to try something new. It is about
bringing closure to times that still haunt you.
Tonight, Jean & I will have
grilled Swai fillets & Barb Vogt’s “Cheese Stuffed Zucchini” (a recipe I
altered a bit & made my own – in my hubris, I always do that) & a salad
for me, fruit for Jean.
I learned something today about
culinary nostalgia. Today I remembered
the challenges my husband’s mother presented me, even as she supported me on
more than one occasion to continue my education